Wednesday, August 15, 2012

It feels so GOOD to be touring again!

Monday August 13th was a milestone day for the Avalanche Professional community. SnowProject (the Argentinean business I work for in South America), delivered the 1st gathering of Snow and Avalanche professionals in Argentina and Chile. Workshops on Snow Fracture Mechanics, Decision Making in Avalanche Terrain, New techniques in avalanche rescue, and the latest rescue equipment attracted significant attention among the Argentinean and Chilean participants.

Primer Encuentro de Profesionales de La Ciencia de la Nieve y Avalancha.
The days prior to the event were very busy with logistics and finalizing didactical material, but the Argentinean are serious about the "Asado", an dI had an overdosis of meat and protein!

Erik and Julian (Owners of SnowProject making dinner preparations)
Asado in an Argentinean grill - flash picture
Asado in an Argentinean grill - picture lighted by coals
Sunday morning, before spending the whole day working with the workshop material, I went on an early morning jog for 5 kms along the lake. The night sky is so different from the northern hemisphere, and everybody should at some point in their lives visit the southern hemisphere to get a view at amazing night sky with different star formations.

Lacar Lake in the morning with cerro Sabanas in the background to the left.
Anyhow, I guess most want to know how is the snow. The simple answer is, wet at lower elevations and dense at mid elevations, and windblown at higher elevations. Yesterday ski tour was the first time in the snow since mid June 2012, when I skied in the Sawtooths. needles to say, It feels so GOOD to be touring again! Even when the snow was less than ideal, I loved every minute of the ski tour.

We started the ski tour from the base of Cerro Chapelco, the local ski resort. But we headed to the west and away form the ski resort.

At the base of the climb. Horses are available for "horse back riding" in the snow.
Erik and I climb through the Lenga forest. among quiet and wonderful terrain.

Erik
Chago with obscured Cerro Escalonado and C4 Peak
Chago
After spending few hours wondering in the woods, we skinned to the resort boundary and skied back to the resort base. The conditions above tree line did not look promising, the wind was howling and the snow was heavy.

Ski Run at Chapelco Ski resort named "El Italiano".
After we returned to San Martin, I visited tha grocery store, got fresh vegetables for my first cook session in Argentina. I have to point out, the eggplants here are beautiful! It is a shame I had to cook them and not use them for decoration.
Chago cooking.
Grilled red peppers with cheese stuffed with sautéed eggplant, garlic, tomatoes, and carrots, and green raisins.
Some other Argentineans were also doing cool dishes, chek the picture for a baked dish I have NO idea what it is. But I have to tell you - IT LOOKED DELICIOUS!


I am going ski touring in few minutes. Check the blog tomorrow for video and pictures.




Thursday, August 9, 2012

When there is little snow, improvise!

Tuesday August 7th I arrived to Argentina for my 4th consecutive year. After transferring from the international airport to Buenos Aires main Bus Station at el Retiro, it was time to relax and take the opportunity to soak in the Argentinean experience.

Inside the El Retiro Bus Station
Outside the Bus Station
I walked around the general area until past 3 PM. My bus departed from EL Retiro at 4 PM, and arrived at San Martin de los Andes the next day at noon. That was a very long 20 hours, but the confort of fully reclinable seats and full meal services made the trip very enjoyable. Unlike US airlines,  the passengers were serve REAL food that was included in the very affordable bus ticket.



Wednesday, after arriving to San Martin, I unpacked my gear at my destination, the wonderful Puma Hostel few blocks away from downtown San Martin.

Very comfortable Dinning room 
The TV room, with a wood stove.
My bedroom.
After getting set-up I walked for two hours around San Martin and visited with old friends. Early in the evening  I had a pizza and beers with Jason, Erik Sweet son. Erik is one of the owners of SnowProject, the company I work for providing Avalanche education. Julian (the other SnowProject owner) and Erik are in Pucon-Chile teaching an avalanche course at Villarica Ski resort. This resort is located at the base of an active volcano and ALWAYS get plastered with lots of snow (similar to Oregon-Washington Cascade volcanoes). This avalanche course had to be moved from Chapelco in San Martin to Villarica in Chile due to low snow conditions. They will be returning to San Martin Thursday in the evening.

Wednesday evening was my first evening in a real bed since I left Boise Monday morning. I did not hear any complaints about my bearlike snoring, which I am certain was quite impressive, but Argentineans are way too polite.

Thursday morning I woke up very rested and ready to go ski touring. Although Jason advised me against it due to the low and according to him poor snow conditions. A quick check through the window revealed a cloudy, wind, and stormy day ahead. Thus I instead decided to walk the backroads from San Martin to Chapelco Ski resort.

The  breakfast coffee was splendid. I am convinced that there is some sort of hidden plan by Latin America countries to screw Americans consumers with their worst coffee grains. The hostel provides warm "facturas" for breakfast, and today we had homemade caramelized croissants. Simply delicious!

Croissants to die for. 
Carolina and Diego (to the right) are the hosts at the Puma Hostel.
After doing some e-mail, a FB posting, and some other minor tasks, I left at noon for my 16 km walk to climb more than 2000 feet to the ski resort.

Just as I left the hostel a neighborhood kid with his dad went on a strike and refused to get back on his tricycle. Check picture below of a father taking care of business. Funny!


Before leaving town I ran into a super cute complex of cabins for rent.



Less than 15 minutes of walk on a steep but high quality dirt road leads to great views of San Martin De Los Andes.




There was never a dull moment on the walk. For example, at some point I heard music uphill from the road, and there was this guy splitting wood and dancing to the tune of music. Notice the speakers outside his home.


Not unlike Boise, the Lake District in Northern Patagonia is blessed with a high concentration of birds of Prey. Right after snapping the picture included below, the bird caught a mouse and flew away.

South American bird of Prey.
The clouds continued to build during the day, and it drizzled light rain but the storm was slow to come. That was good, since I was hiking with a softshell.

Dirt road across Northern Patagonia landscape.
I continued for 90 minutes until I started to run into a small ranch with a kid enjoying his Tonka like toy with his puppy. Check the video included, I thought it was heart warming.



Right after this photo was taken a large and very protective dog ran form the kid's house toward me, exited the fence at the road, and ran directly to me. I had to scream at the dog, and avoid my instinct to run ... the dog really meant business. After a minute of mutual intimidation, the dog ran back to the house, and I walked at a high brisk to get away.

After this farm I went through a small village, and the road climbed steeply for the next 1000 feet. There were some beautiful mountain homes and ranch animals. Life look simple and compelling.

horse and chickens
Home tucked next to hills
Home and sheep
A sheep that I thought was deliberately posing for me.
A black sheep
A goat
Home with a miniature sheep
Chickens next to snow patch.
Alpaca and chicken

There was a section in the road were I noticed recent digging work along some switchbacks. Minutes latter I ran into an excavator and truck parked next to the road. There were voices down a steep embarkment about 10 meters below the road. I was able to point my camera and zoom in, and observed three workers having their lunch - an improvised asado (BBQ)! Argentineans really KNOW how to take care of their lunches. Take a look at the pictures included below. In the second picture you can see their bread. Remember there was light rain, it was breeze, and humid cold. It must have teated delicious. I had with me only chicken soup in thermos, a banana, and a mandarin orange. I kept hoping that they would hear me, and I would get invited to this asado.




As I approached the 3000 feet there were less farm animals, and the flora became intriguing and weird. I included these next set of pictures to show the trees where skiers do tree skiing. I have been told that the green balls  (misodendrum) and grayish "barbas del diablo" are benign parasites and do not harm the local trees (ñire - a type of nothofagus, which are common in the Patagonia region). I should point out that nothofagus tree powder skiing is a delicacy - very rare but extremely very satisfying!

Misodendrum
Misodendrum
Barbas del Diablo
ñire forest
Few kilometers before reaching the resort I noticed a sign defining the boundary of a native forest. Notice that within the boundaries there is a white pine. I was told that White Pine was imported to this area and has done very well, but is not a native species.


After 2 and a half hours I made it to the ski resort. I was surprised about the low snow conditions, and glad I choose not to ski today. I was told that it has not snow for 3 weeks.

Chapelco Ski resort base
Chapelco gondolas. 
Mid Mountain not looking too bad.
After 30 minutes the skies slightly cleared for a while and I was able to see the upper mountain.

Upper Mountain - Chapelco Ski resort
El Escalonado - Steep side country.
El Escalonado - Steep side country
The storm forecasted for tonight through the rest of this weekend better be significant. There is a lot of rock and terrain that needs to be cover. But once again, storm in the Andes are known for going BIG.

I hitched a ride from a ski instructor back to San Martin. Once in town I snapped few more pictures that will provide the reader with a good appreciation of San Martin de Los Andes.

Downtown San Martin, a few blocks away from the Hostel.
Sidewalk and stores in Downtown San Martin 
One of several grocery stores.
This was an unexpected day that I truly enjoyed. The walk through the farmland and Andes low foothills was very enlightening to me. I hope the pictures portray that well into the reader of this blog.